Beaufort, SC

 

 

    Got up bright and early having spent a quiet night at anchorage in a small bay just off the waterway. During the night we had scare when the boat who we were anchored beside was now gone. We spent a few tense moments trying to figure out if it was us or them who was dragging the anchor. Both side of the bay was shallow, but we seemed to be right int the middle. Always, always, always these things happen when it's dark. I had taken a bearing off a small dock, and it seemed we were in the same place. Not so for our friends on Dream Chaser who spent the night drifting around the bay trying to get there achor to grab. Soon as they repositioned, set the anchor and got comfortable, or layed down, they started to move again. They had a very restless night.  Sorry, I  slept like a baby.

Another strange site we saw lately, one that I had put on Facebook was a deer swimming in the waterway. He was going to go completly across but as we got close to him he turned around and swam back to the bank he came from. Probably to try it later.

Only travelled about 30 miles today. We had intended to do more, but Mother Nature had other plans for us. The dawn brought heavy fog, so we had to wait for it to burn off.

 When we started going, we had tide and current to deal with. After getting close to Beaufort, we had reduce speed to time the bridge opening, which only opens on the hour and half past. We continued past own and pulled into Port Royal Landing Marina.

When we got up this morning the forecast predicted rain so we decided to stay one more and let it pass. We also had to have ane electical problem taken care of. Somehow a ground cable came loose and fell onto the driveshaft which caused it wear almost through. We found a guy, thanks to the marina staff who came to dock and had it fixed in less than 1/2 hour. Total cost.........20 bucks. Who said there aren't honest people in this world.

 We then did a fast tour of downtown Beaufort by using the courtesy car. Most houses have large Living Oak trees on the front lawn draped in Spanish Moss. Absolutly stunning.

Tomorrow we are moving on to Georgia, a new state.

Charleston, NC

 

  As you travel down the waterway, one fear stays in your mind, meeting a tug pulling a barge in a narrow area. Well, today we met one, and actually it wasn't as bad as we thought. Only raised the blood pressure a bit, and after a few choice words, we passed him. Everybody had been telling me to keep the radio on the channel that tugs work on, and I would know far in advance. It didn't quite work  that way. As I came around a bend, there it was. Not just any tug, one that was about 1/4 mile long, being pulled by one, and being assisted by 2 more, taking up most of the canal. We squeezed over as much as we could, held our position, and watched this mammoth slide by. All part of the adventure.

 

This one of the cities that we wanted to see. It's funny how, when  you live on a boat , as soon as you get to port , you want to run off and look at houses. These are some of the most historical landmarks in the U.S.  We walked around admiring the buildings that date back to 16, 17, and 1800s.

The first shots of the civil war were fired here, with Fort Sumter protecting the harbour. We didn't have enough time to tour the fort, as this city has so many sites, It would take a week. We crammed it in to 2 days.

Georgetown, NC

     Another great day to be on the water. Since we were only going 30 miles we chose to have breakfast before we set out, instead of while we are under way, as usual. We untied the lines around 8:30am which is late for us. I have no idea why I can't sleep in past sun-up, usually I'm up before the sun. I think it has something to do with being retired.
 We sailed down a the most scenic section of the Atlantic Inter-coastal Waterway on the Waccamaw River. Golf courses and magnificent houses line both sides, we were the only boat for most of the way.

We were moving along at a nice when we noticed something strange ahead of us, we both strained our eyes trying to figure out what the heck kind of boat was ahead of us and how to avoid it. We slowed down because it was crossing in front of us, as we got close enough to see what it really was we both burst in to laughter. Here was a truck on a broken barge being towed across the river. Only in the south.

When we arrived in Georgetown, we quickly got the boat squared away then went for a stroll through this  historic town. Houses from 17 and 1800s line the streets. And yes, George Washington did stay here.

                                               Notice: Don't feed alligators

 

 We walked along the waterfront, stopped in a pub for a late lunch, then slowly made or way back to our dock. A flock of pelicans flew over to visit. I think they wanted to give me a lesson on how to catch fish. They were having feeding frenzy not 20 feet off our boat. Some of the fish were so big they had trouble swallowing them. Show offs....

Waccamaw River, NC

 

Like I said " stay tuned ", so I will bring you up to date. we travelled on to Morehead City. When we got close to our anchorage a group of dolphins came out to meet us. They followed us for over a mile. With all the boats of all sizes, it's a wonder that they are not frightened by sound of the motors. This is a very busy harbour with Beaufort, NC. just 2 miles away up a different inlet.
  We turned towards the ocean inlet and anchored beside the Coast Guard station. There were a couple of boats that we had met earlier who were also there. They planned to use the inlet to gain access to the Atlantic, so they could travel on the ocean south to the next inlet. Doing this supposably you cut off some miles.
  The next day, getting a early start, this is something we have got accustomed to, we set out for Mile Hammock Bay. Not even 5 miles, just under 1 hour, and we were aground. The wind came up and spun the boat around, and we under way again without much delay. It only takes a few seconds of not paying close attention to the markers, and you get into trouble. Much like subways which I haven't thought too much about.

  Mile Hammock Bay, is a small anchorage, favourite amongst experiened cruisers, inside Camp Lejeune military base. They allow you to anchor there, but at any time, day or night you may be asked to leave due to manoevers by the marines stationed there. Lucky that didn't happen, they would have worked really hard trying to wake us. Probably would have taken explosives, never know.
 We had a beautifull night at anchorage and up early again, for another day of travel to Wrightsville Beach known for beautifull white sand beaches. The white sand and the turquoise water were amazing, but so were the thirty mile an hour winds that kept Muriel awake all night checking that we were not dragging our anchor. Most of the boats in the anchorage had dragged during the night and Muriel was getting more nervous. Finally, daylight, we thought we would never get the anchor out, with the wind blowing at thirty to thirty five miles an hour. But it wasn't too bad, we managed, with Muriel at the helm and me yelling which way to go while dodging other boats. Only casualty, King Neptune stole our winch handle to bring up the anchor. Thank goodness the anchor was almost aboard.

     Dave and Haila on Traveler called us early, we agreed to get to South Port  that day. This is where they are ending their trip, and finally home. It was very important to leave that day because the winds were going to increase but the tides and current were going to be in our favour for the CAPE FEAR RIVER. We would not be able to move for days if we didn't go. We braced ourselves for a bad day.
On our way we heard lots of boats calling for assistance, but we were fine. It was a really good day. Cape Fear river,...... another fear conquered.
    Spend two days with Dave and Haila, getting some boat chores completed including a new handle. We said our goodbyes, then moved along alone. We will miss them they have became good friends.
    We made it to Myrtle Beach, but what do you know?........... another storm.

Morehead City, NC

 

Woke up to a beautiful morning, sun shining brightly but no wind. We are going to be headed to Morehead City to nice little anchorage off the town. We are still in the company of Traveler for a few more days as they make their way home to Southport, NC.

Did one more stroll around this quaint little town. Checked on the dragon eggs which are everywhere. Thats why it is known as the City of Dragons, or the sailing capital of North Carolina, depends who you talk to.

Since we are anchoring we won't be updating till we are in internet range. Stay tuned.......

City of Dragons, Oriental, NC

  Slipped the dock lines just as the sun was coming up, to make our way towards Oriental, North Carolina. It was chilly but not as bad as we have been experiencing the last couple of days. We  are still in the company of Traveler, and also Enterprise from Boston. George and Steve are ending there journey here and returning home, then coming back in Febuary to continue.

   As we sailed down Pamlico Sound, other boats who had been anchored in the numerous creeks started joining the pack. I counted 20 on the horizon. There's a free dock in town, that can hold two boats, so it didn't look promising.

We travelled through rivers and openwater, with large shrimp boats lining the banks.

  The weather improved all day, the sun keeping us warm, but I kept on my fleece jacket all day. Everyone has told us that this is not normal, that the cold is caused by the hurricane that came through weeks ago.

  

Nor'easter that never came

    

  The weather broke today, the nor'easter that had us held here has passed so it looks like a GO tomorrow. It was just biting, cold, rain. A couple of boats left today, but the forecast said it was to be around 40, so we will wait one more day when it's suppose to be in the 60s. We spent yesterday getting the boat ready to move again. Filling up all our fuels.Went to town using the courtesy car, not so much that we needed things but just something to do. Seems strange to drive a car. Finally got a fishing license, but it's too cold to fish, not for them, me.  

We've been holed up watching DVDs for the past couple of days only coming out for Happy Hour. Hard life.....
 It's a get together in the lounge, BYOB and potluck. Most boat crews show to meet fellow travellers.

   
 On our trip to town we saw these fields covered with white, almost looked like snow, we had no idea what it could be, the farmer was busy harvesting his crop. Haila and Dave told us they were cotton fields. The fields were beautifull, like cotton balls on sticks. Haila got a stock for me it was just like the cotton balls in the pharmacy. Something new everyday.

   

Alligator River

                                             
                                 Alligator River to Dowry Creek                                          


    After a chilly trip on the Abermarle Sound we pulled into  Alligator River Marina, a tucked away spot close to a bridge which takes cars out to the outer banks. The sound has a reputation of being one of the roughest bodies of water due to it's shallow depths but for us it was actually quite a nice sail. As the day went on, the temperature kept dropping and the wind increased. When we got to our destination, there was lots of white caps and rolling waves. To get into the marina we had to go right up to the bridge, then turn hard to the right and follow the shoreline to the opening. From out on the water it looks like you are going to go into the trees. Little bit hard on the nerves... but we made it safely.
  After docking the boat, we plugged in the electrical cord and turned on the cabin heater. Everything inside has been damp since Hurricane Sandy. We bought a propane heater but as it burns, it causes condensation so inside has been wet for well over a week. We got all our chores done,  laundry,....clean, .....fuel up,.....shoot the shit with other cruisers over beer, then we were invited to dinner by our friends, Haila and David on Traveller, from Southport, NC. David has worked on tugs and shrimp boats most of his life working with his father. Together, Haila and Dave, have managed a marina in Florida for the last three years. We turned in early cause the plan was to get up early and lead the pack of boats down the Alligator River.

  Well,...... we did stay in third place most of the morning, sailing along at 6 knts. till the big powerboats( who slept in late) caught up. There is the Alligator-Pungo canal which is one of the last ones we will have to travel in. It is about 100 feet wide at it's widest spot, but the deep water is right down the middle. These fast moving cruisers pass on both sides, they don't need the depth that sailboats need, causing big wakes as they go by.  Moving over to the side is not an option as it get shallow real fast. We seen one sailboat stuck, but he was pulled of by a following boat. The bottom is soft mud, so when you touch, you come to slow stop. The boat is held there by suction. As we were passing a small opening in the forest which lines both banks we spotted 2 small bears playing in a sand pit. They stopped to watch us sail by. And yes,they do have alligators but we didn't see any, too cold for them, they probably all went to Florida.

                The saying is..." If you've never been aground,.... you never been around."



  Like always, in the early afternoon the wind came up, and we had a exciting ride the last few miles into Dowry Creek marina. We are going to hold here to see what this nor'easter is going to do. We are getting the occasional 30 kn. gust, maybe it's a sign of whats to come, we'll see.
This is a very scenic spot surrounded by a marsh. We arrived just in time for Happy Hour.

 All the cruisers went up to the lounge with a appetizer and a drink and we all sat around and talked about the storm that is on its way, and of course about there boating experiences. Some boats are leaving today to run further south, we will stay here till it passes.

                                                   Wine Bottle Tree, grown by boaters

Across the Abermarle Sound

                                                                 Great Day

                                                   Historic home, Elizabeth City,NC

                                          Main Street, lined with many interesting buildings
                                                  dating back to 1800s

Hidden away tied to the dock 

 

    We got up early, even earlier since they put the clock back last night to get the first bridge opening leaving Elizabeth City. This passage has a reputation of being rough, most of the time, but today it was fairly smooth. It started to rain when we got out in the sound, and the temperature kept dropping but it actually was a great day. We were bundled up, only warm clothes we have, track pants and sweaters but still felt chilly.

   After what seemed like a long day but was only a few hours we arrived at the mouth of the Alligator river and chose to splurge and pull into a marina, something we haven,t done in a while. Have to get diesel and get the boat pumped out, and electricity for the heater sure sounds good.
  There is another noreaster coming so we have to move to get out of it,s path.

Finally on the move again

                                                     Hurricane Sandy has left

    We are finnally on the move again after spending a week holed up in the Dismal Swamp canal. There were about 12 other boats along with us. We had Mexican night, Chinese night ,(at the local restaurant) then had a get together on a trimaran to help us spend our time sitting out hurricane Sandy.
  The lockmaster, Robert turned out to be the highlight of our stay here. He would serve coffee and cakes each morning at the guard house. He knew all the history of the locks which is oldest and longest operating, since 1805. We even got to see him play a tune on a conch shell which he collects from cruisers travelling north in the spring.

We met a lot of nice cruisers who we hope we will stay in touch with as we all work our way south.

 Most are travelling with pets, which make us miss Jack, our little dog back home . One boat we met had 2 Parrots that talked, even when they left the boat it always sounded like somebody was home.

 

 

 

 

 So this morning, we set out, not really sure where we were going , but just wanted to get moving again. Soon after the first bridge opening, which crosses Hwy US.17, we entered the narrow canal south into North Carolina. Another state in our logbook.

 

We rafted with 4 abreast at the North Carolina Welcome Center, to spend the night, then push on to

Elizabeth City, NC.